I'm worried that tofu might have an image problem.

Somewhere along the way, most of us decided that the block goes straight from package to pan (maybe with a brief sojourn to be pressed for a couple of minutes), and then we act surprised when it becomes a crumbly mess.

With National Tofu Day coming tomorrow, perhaps it's time for all of us to learn to make this stuff the right way.

The essential thing that we need to work against is the fact that tofu is roughly 85% water. Therefore, there are two things we need to do, when preparing the stuff, to give it the best chance of not being terrible.

The first is to extend our pressing time. For extra-firm, a couple of minutes aren't going to cut it; you need at least 30 minutes under real weight (think a cutting board with a heavy skillet on top). But if you're a planner, you can do even better by freezing the tofu overnight and then thawing it first. That's because freezing turns the interior water into ice crystals that leave behind a spongy, craggy texture that drinks up marinade and crisps like a dream.

The other thing that will absolutely improve your tofu is to toss it in cornstarch and salt; these will pull off the last of the surface moisture and fry into a shatter-thin shell.

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From there, the rules are simple: hot pan, enough oil to coat, and do not crowd it.

Give each cube personal space and leave it alone for three full minutes before you touch it. And whatever sauce you're using goes on at the very end, off the heat, or you'll undo everything you just built.

Crispy Maple-Miso Tofu with Cabbage-Apple Slaw

Serves 4 · Active time: 30 minutes · Stovetop only — no oven required

The first week of September is a strange in-between. It's still 90 degrees at 5 p.m., but the brain has already moved on to sweaters and cider. This one splits the difference: warm maple and miso for the fall craving, cold crunchy slaw with a raw apple for the reality of the thermometer. Nothing here turns on the oven.

Ingredients

Tofu

• 2 blocks (14 oz each) extra-firm tofu, pressed 30 minutes
• 1/3 cup cornstarch
• 1 tsp kosher salt
• 1/2 tsp black pepper
• 4 tbsp neutral oil (grapeseed or canola)

Maple-Miso Glaze

• 3 tbsp white miso
• 3 tbsp maple syrup
• 2 tbsp rice vinegar
• 1 tbsp soy sauce
• 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil
• 1 clove garlic, grated
• 1 tsp grated fresh ginger
• 2–3 tbsp warm water, to loosen

Slaw

• 4 cups shredded green cabbage (about half a small head)
• 1 firm-tart apple (Honeycrisp or Granny Smith), julienned
• 2 scallions, thinly sliced
• 1/4 cup chopped cilantro or parsley
• 2 tbsp rice vinegar
• 1 tbsp neutral oil
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 2 tbsp toasted sesame seeds

Method

1. Press and cut. Drain the tofu, wrap each block in a clean towel, and weight it for 30 minutes. Cut into 1-inch cubes and blot once more — the surface should feel dry, not damp.
2. Make the slaw. Toss cabbage, apple, scallions and herbs with vinegar, oil and salt. Let it sit while you cook; it softens just enough. Add sesame seeds right before serving.
3. Whisk the glaze. Combine everything except the water, then add water a tablespoon at a time until it pours like heavy cream. Set aside.
4. Dredge. In a wide bowl, mix cornstarch, salt and pepper. Add the tofu and toss gently until every cube is chalky-white. Shake off the excess.
5. Fry. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a large nonstick or cast-iron skillet over medium-high until it shimmers. Add half the tofu in a single layer with space between cubes. Do not move it for 3 minutes. Flip and repeat on 2–3 more sides, about 8–10 minutes total. Transfer to a rack — not a paper towel, which traps steam. Repeat with remaining oil and tofu.
6. Glaze off the heat. Kill the burner. Return all the tofu to the pan, pour over about two-thirds of the glaze, and toss for 30 seconds in the residual heat. The glaze should cling and gloss, not puddle.
7. Serve over the slaw, with the remaining glaze on the side. Cold rice or warm rice both work — dealer's choice depending on what the thermometer says.

Notes from the Kitchen

• The freezer trick: Freeze the unopened block overnight, thaw fully, then press. The texture goes chewy and porous and crisps up noticeably better. Worth doing on a Sunday for a Wednesday dinner.
• Air fryer version: 400°F for 15–18 minutes, shaking at the halfway mark. Glaze after, same as above.
• Leftovers: The tofu softens overnight. Revive it in a dry skillet for 2 minutes per side — don't microwave it.