Local Knowledge: Bimini

Situated less than 50 nautical miles from Florida's east coast and within the cobalt, fish-laden waters of the Gulf Stream is Bimini.

Bimini, Bahamas, has long been a favorite port of entry for cruisers as well as a prime nautical destination for anglers and revelers alike. It is a symbiotic relationship, as a significant portion of the island's income is tied to the private boats that fill the harbor at Alice Town each season.

When captivated by the island's emerald shallows, white sand beaches and smiling locals, it's easy to forget that this tiny island has weathered its share of economic ups and downs. Like the ebb and flow of tides, fortunes have come and gone, first with rumrunners during prohibition, again with American industrialists and movie stars in the late 1930s and more recently during the drug-smuggling days of the 1980s. Through each subsequent cycle of boom and bust, it is the return of private pleasure boats that bolstered the economy.

The recent recession saw fewer U.S. boaters make the crossing, but thanks to several marina and resort restoration and development projects, the island can now offer more in the way of shore-side enticements than ever before. The process began with breaking ground on the ambitious Bimini Bay project. Originally slated to consume the majority of the island's pristine north end ? and subsequently the source of ongoing controversy over issues of dredging and wetlands loss ? the project has so far resulted in the construction of an upscale residential and resort enclave and a 230-slip marina.

Far less controversial, and some would argue far more welcome, was the subsequent upgrading of the venerable Browns Hotel & Marina, which included the addition of 200 new slips, a restored seawall and a boardwalk that gave access to waterfront favorites such as Big John's and the End of the World Bar. But at about the same time, the island suffered the loss of one of its iconic landmarks, the Compleat Angler, which burned to the ground in January 2006.

Fortunately, another marquis property that has long been a fixture of the waterfront will not be lost to natural or economic conflagrations. Biminites have put a lot of hope and hard work into the recent reopening of the Bimini Big Game Club. Founded in 1936 as a formal dinner club for sportsmen, the BBGC has been through several reincarnations. The latest brings with it a new name ? the Bimini Big Game Club Guy Harvey Outpost Resort & Marina.

As the name suggests, the new operator of the club is Guy Harvey Outpost, a company spearheaded by famed marine artist and conservationist Guy Harvey. It was founded with a specific goal: to foster sustainable ecotourism with reciprocal benefits for both customers and residents of the communities in which the outposts are located. In support of this goal, the updated and restructured BBGC will not only cater to fishermen, but will also provide guests with opportunities to snorkel, scuba dive, swim and hike ? all within the parameters of environmental sustainability.

It was no surprise to see Guy Harvey artwork everywhere, from the walls to the throw pillows, and if I wanted any Guy Harvey signature pieces for myself, I could purchase them on-site. Harvey made a point of attending opening-day festivities and spoke on why he chose Bimini as an outpost location, saying he hoped the rejuvenated club would help jump-start tourism to the island.

The resort did still have a few minor kinks to work out, but the staff, who were magic, took care of every request and concern without question. That made all the difference.

Where to Stay

Located on North Bimini, the Bimini Bay Resort (biminibayresort.com, fall/winter rates $2 per foot) claims to have the largest state-of-the-art marinas in the Bahamas. With 230 slips at two facilities and the ability to accommodate vessels up to 203 feet in length, it seems likely. Amenities include 24-hour security, tie-up assistance as well as single and three-phase power. Bimini Bay's Marina also offers on-site customs and immigration, which no matter where you choose to dock will cost you $300 to clear ($150 for boats less than 35 feet). Browns Hotel & Marina (brownshotelandmarina.com, $1.75 per foot) sits at the harbor entrance to historic Alice Town, behind Big John's Conch Shell Bar (bigjohnsbimini.com). Tie up at one of Browns' slips and then head straight over to Big John's to see some familiar faces from the old Compleat Angler ? including managers, bartenders and the band. Big John's also offers seven newly renovated boutique guest suites above the bar with views of the bayfront. Bimini Sands Resort & Marina (biminisands.com, $33 per day up to 30 feet, $1.10 per additional foot) is a fully protected deepwater facility that can host yachts up to 100 feet in length. Visitors have access to the Texaco Star port fuel station, free Wi-Fi, swimming pool, onsite customs and resort restaurants.

What to Do

Take a walking tour of historic Bimini with guide Ashley Saunders (242-347-3201, $10 per person), on which you'll visit the Bimini Museum to learn about pirates. You can also go swimming offshore with wild spotted dolphins (biminiundersea.com). Fishermen can finally make that big catch with Capt. Jerome Stuart (biminifishing.com), who is happy to take you deep-sea fishing for marlin, tuna and wahoo. Prefer to just look? Check out the Bimini Biological Field Station (aka Sharklab) (miami.edu/sharklab), where researchers study the island's shark population.